Thru-Hikers Return to Appalachian Trail Communities, Following Adjustments
Every summer, Appalachian Trail towns in the Upper Connecticut River Valley — including Hanover, NH, and Lebanon, VT — welcome a tidal wave of thru-hikers. Following the COVID-19 pandemic's shutdown of A.T. hiking and numerous businesses in 2020, these towns are expecting a bustling season in 2021.
When the horde of Appalachian Trail (A.T.) thru-hikers storms into downtown Hanover, NH, in early July, they'll follow an agenda similar to this: shower, clean clothes, feast on food other than dried and energy bars, and, if budget allows, a cozy, dry bed.
Usually, hikers can find everything they need in these towns, catering to their massive appetites and long-lasting budgets (up to six months and 2,200 miles). At Lou's Restaurant & Bakery, a hiker may be bestowed with a complimentary doughnut. Ramunto's serves free pizza to hikers. When hikers visit Dan & Whit's General Store to restock supplies, they often receive a free day-old sandwich and a list of trail angels — locals who offer free accommodation. Outside the Howe Library, a box collects items locals donate to thru-hikers, from food to camping gear.
Last year, pandemic-induced lockdowns and the Appalachian Trail Conservancy's (ATC) closure of the trail to thru-hikers forced many to abandon the trail prematurely. But with vaccines increasing the safety of long-distance hiking and the easing of most business restrictions, trail towns like Hanover are preparing for a more usual 2021, with some adaptations for both hikers and communities.
Jayne Trailer, marketing manager at the Hanover Adventure Tours Hostel in Norwich, VT, predicts an "incipient tripling" of A.T. thru-hikers in 2021.
Lifting the Barriers
In May, the ATC, which has managed and conserved the A.T. since 1925, lifted the restrictions they had imposed over a year ago, giving hikers freedom to commence, or resume, their journey. As of mid-June, 3,863 thru-hikers had informed the ATC of their intentions to hike the A.T. in 2021, surpassing both 2019 (3,273) and 2018 (3,574).
Matthew "Odie" Norman contests the figures, however. Norman, who produces the annual Hiker Yearbook – showcasing photos of thru-hikers on the Pacific Crest and Appalachian Trails – journeys through the country in a yellow school bus. He laments many of his favorite businesses along the trail are now closed, like the Little Red Hen Diner & Bakery in Andover, ME, and the Greasy Creek Friendly in Bakersville, NC.
Nonetheless, Norman had met a thousand hikers by early June, with 90% claiming to be vaccinated. Some hikers began their journeys in February to avoid crowds, while others are finishing in sections. Many thru-hikers are merely restarting from where they left the trail in 2020.
"I think numbers will triple, honestly," says Jayne Trailer. "So many people left and didn't finish last year. We might get more section hikers who just need to finish, but overall, I think the outdoor world has piqued people's interest."
Ready and Buzzing
The vast majority of A.T. communities are slowly opening up again, embracing the swarm of hikers. Andrea Lassor, co-chair of the Dalton (MA) A.T. Committee, reports all restaurants in town are open, and the Dalton Community Recreation Association is once more providing free showers to A.T. hikers, which it paused in 2020.
Of course, some traditions won't be the same or will be absent in 2021. In Hanover, numerous businesses are closed permanently, such as the Skinny Pancake and Salt Hill Pub, and certain individuals and community institutions are hesitant to welcome out-of-town hikers. The Richard W. Black Community Center, which usually permits hikers to use its showers and laundry facilities, isn't prepared for hikers yet, and many trail angels who have offered free lodging are waiting a little longer before doing so.
"Many trail angels are older," explains Betsy Maislen, a Norwich, VT resident who has housed and fed thru-hikers since her son recovered from a heel injury with trail angels during a 2007 thru-hike. "It breaks my heart to turn hikers away, but I can't invite them into my home right now. I recommend the [Hanover Adventure Tours Hostel] in Norwich instead."
Hostels along the trail will also have adjustments, such as more rental equipment and added amenities for general vacationers, in addition to thru-hikers. The Notch Hostel in North Woodstock, NH, offers more private rooms and outdoor tent sites. At the Hanover Adventure Tours Hostel, dining now occurs outdoors under a tent to ensure everyone feels safe.
"We want to ensure everyone feels safe," Trailer repeats. "I believe at this moment, safety is the most crucial aspect."
In May, Damascus, VA, resumed its annual Trail Days festival for thru-hikers and outdoor enthusiasts, after canceling it in 2020.
New Spaces
In Cheshire, MA, hikers discovered a new campsite — the Father Tom Campsite, which opened in 2020. This site features space for ten tents and two hammocks, and is located across the street from an ice cream and sandwich shop. The site is created through a collaboration between the Cheshire Appalachian Trail Committee and local officials, offering amenities like a water spicket, picnic table, portable toilet, trash bin, electric outlets, and an on-site shed with bikes hikers can borrow to ride into town.
The site is named after Rev. Thomas Begley, a pastor who began hosting hikers in St. Mary of the Assumption Church in the early 1980s. When the church was no longer able to accommodate hikers, the community came together to create this new service.
"Having a campsite in town is unusual," says Eileen Quinn, the Cheshire A.T. Community Coordinator. "But the residents here have long welcomed hikers, as they have passed through forever. Their hospitable nature remains."
It seems residents will once more be able to extend their hospitality this summer and fall.
In the midst of the bustling businesses and welcoming communities along the Appalachian Trail, sports enthusiasts might find themselves participating in improvised games of ultimate frisbee or pick-up soccer matches with fellow hikers.
As the summer months approach, many travel-obsessed individuals might reignite their passion for hiking, opting for a multi-month adventure along the Appalachian Trail instead of their usual jet-setting lifestyle. With the lift of restrictions by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and the resumption of traditional trail town festivals, it's an ideal time for those seeking adventure and a change of pace.
