Oregon: Marine Life Discovered Beneath the Waves
Breaking dawn on the Ocean Highway, we journey from the quaint coastal town of Seaside, an hour and a half's drive from bustling Portland, Oregon. As the sun rises, the wider beaches along the 560-kilometer-long coast of the "Beaver State" transformed into endless, wet sand flats at low tide. Seaside is no exception.
From September to April, enthusiasts known as "tidepoolers" flock to this spot, armed with specialized tubes. They drill into the soft, wet sand in search of their prized find: the elusive geoduck. These long, burrowing clams, measuring up to 25 centimeters, emerge quickly from their hiding spots at low tide to avoid drying out until the next wave. Their sweet, delicate flesh is highly coveted for its nutty flavor.
Yet, our curiosity lies not with geoducks, but with the living nature of Oregon's coast. Our destination is the Tillamook Head rock formation, marking the beginning of Ecola State Park, a sanctuary for well-adapted species.
Shrouded in clouds, we navigate the dense canopy of towering conifers, our footsteps muffled by soft plant cushions and damp air. The fragrance of unknown herbs, resin, and earth permeate the air.
Amidst the drizzle and thicket, it's challenging to imagine the majestic Sitka spruces, western hemlocks, and common Douglas firs reaching over 70 meters skyward—the preferred material of the Coast Salish, indigenous people of the Pacific Northwest, who carved their totem poles from these sturdy trunks.
"Wet weather is normal here from fall to spring," remarks Alanna Kieffer, marine biologist and our guide, emphasizing that such conditions are less frequent during the summer months.
At low tide, the beach seems to stretch to the horizon. However, according to Alanna, "What we see from up here mostly belongs to the intertidal zone—covered by the ocean at high tide." The Indian and Cannon Creeks, seeping into the sand at this moment, present a full and breathtaking bay habitat for unique animal and plant species.
Curious to learn more, Alanna graciously shares her knowledge with interested visitors. As she explains, these resilient creatures have adapted perfectly to the extreme differences of the tides and coexist harmoniously in shallow tide pools, despite the imposing Pacific Ocean surrounding them.
"Can you hear them?" Alanna poses, placing shells to our ears. We hear the soft murmurs of a myriad of mussels. "As soon as the tide goes out, they close their shells and live off the water between them until the next tide."
Traveling further, we spot Haystack Rock, a 72-meter high basalt formation teeming with these not-so-silent sea creatures. Extinct on this coast due to hunting and fur trade, sea otters now find a home at the Oregon Aquarium in Newport. Dedicated scientists are working tirelessly to reintroduce these intelligent marine mammals to the Oregon coast.
Our journey continues with visits to Cascade Head, home to an extinct volcano turned research forest where species coexist as they did thousands of years ago, welcome sights of sea otters, and the majestic cliffs of Cape Perpetua.
Between Florence and Coos Bay, we discover the Oregon Dunes—a 60-kilometer-long sand mountain range that supports a vast avian population. Though controversial for nature, recreational activities like sandboarding and motorized vehicles are allowed in select areas. We opt for hiking and enjoy the serenity of the next seashore beneath the towering ocean.
This research was supported by Travel Oregon and CRD Touristik.
Best time to travel: May through October offers pleasant temperatures and less frequent rainfall.Getting there: Three weekly direct flights from Frankfurt to Portland are offered by Condor during the summer months (10 hours 40 minutes, round trip starting around 460 €, www.condor.com).Round trips: CRD Touristik offers rental car round trips and individual tours, such as 13 days (11 nights) including flights from/to Portland per person in a double room starting at 2529 € (www.crd.de).Information: www.traveloregon.de
- Tidepooling Highlights: Haystack Rock, Cannon Beach; Ecola State Park; Hug Point, Arch Cape; Short Sand Beach, Oswald West State Park; Harris Beach State Park (a designated Marine Garden)
- Tips for Tidepooling: Timing (low tides), Conservation (handle marine life gently and avoid removal from habitat), Safety (mindful of tide schedules and slippery rocks)
Embarking on our exploration of Oregon's coast, we navigate the lush Tillamook Head to access Ecola State Park, a haven for intriguing coastal wildlife. Amidst the damp thicket, the landscapes transform into a fascinating blend of intertidal zones and vibrant bay ecosystems, home to an array of resilient sea creatures.
As our journey unfolds, we visit Haystack Rock, where tidepooling reveals its wonders, offering glimpses into the diverse, yet harmonious marine life that thrives in this breathtaking location.