Delving into the Past: A Look at Tskaltubo, Georgia's Abandoned Spa Town and Its Enduring Healing Tradition
Discovering the Abandoned Splendour of Tskaltubo, Georgia
Nestled in western Georgia, Tskaltubo is a town steeped in history and intrigue. Originating as a healing site as early as the 7th century, Tskaltubo gained international recognition during the Soviet era, particularly from the 1920s onward[1][3].
The town's radon- and sulfur-rich thermal waters were believed to treat various ailments, including arthritis and cardiovascular diseases[1][3]. In the 1920s, the Soviet state formally acquired the territory and declared it a balneotherapy center by 1931. Under Stalin’s patronage, Tskaltubo was developed into a flagship spa resort, boasting over 22 grand spa complexes by the 1930s[1][3].
At its peak, Tskaltubo was a carefully engineered spa utopia, attracting visitors from across the USSR via direct trains from Moscow. The infrastructure was extensive: sanatoriums offered accommodation, medical treatments, and leisure facilities including performance halls and parks[1][2][3].
However, following the decline and eventual collapse of the Soviet Union by the late 1980s and early 1990s, Tskaltubo’s elaborate infrastructure fell into neglect. Maintenance broke down, leading to the abandonment and decay of once-grand sanatoriums and bathhouses[1][3][4]. Today, many of these historic buildings stand derelict or semi-ruined, overgrown and empty, serving as a poignant reminder of its Soviet past but also attracting visitors interested in urban exploration and Soviet history[1][3][4].
Despite the decay, some of the large sanatoriums have been refurbished, such as the Tskaltubo Legends Spa Resort. The town largely remains marked by its abandoned Soviet-era sanatorium architecture, but it has become a unique place where displaced refugees live within the ruins[1][4].
The thermal springs still exist, but the spa town’s heyday as a premier Soviet health resort belongs to history[1][4]. Nevertheless, Tskaltubo is experiencing a quiet resurgence in tourism, with around 15,000 to 20,000 visitors annually[2].
For those venturing into the abandoned sanatoriums, it's essential to approach with respect and sensitivity, especially when photographing areas where refugees reside. Be sure to bring sturdy shoes and a flashlight, as many structures can be unstable and poorly lit[1].
The local food scene in Tskaltubo offers a rich taste of Georgian hospitality, with most meals served in guesthouses or family-run cafes. Chkmeruli, a traditional chicken dish cooked in a clay pot and generously covered in a rich garlic cream sauce, is a must-try dish in Tskaltubo[1]. Vegetarian meals are also available.
Tskaltubo is easily accessible from Kutaisi, with regular marshrutkas (minibuses) and taxis providing convenient transport[1]. The best time to visit Tskaltubo for blooming landscapes and mild temperatures is in the spring (April to June), while autumn (September to November) offers crisp weather, golden foliage, and fewer tourists[1].
For a greater variety, the nearby city of Kutaisi offers several restaurants such as Palaty, Baraka, and Sisters[1]. Tskaltubo can be visited in a day trip, making it ideal for a half- or full-day escape from Kutaisi[1].
Tskaltubo offers a wide range of accommodations to suit different preferences and budgets, including the Tskaltubo Spa Resort, Hotel Prometheus, and family-run guesthouses[1]. The town is also known for its local drinks, such as Chacha, a strong homemade grape spirit, and Tsolikouri and Krakhuna wines from the Imereti region, crisp white varieties known for their fruity and floral notes[1].
As you explore the spectacularly abandoned sanatoriums that seem frozen in time, you'll find Tskaltubo offers a unique and hauntingly beautiful experience for history, architecture, and urban exploration enthusiasts[1]. Tskaltubo was once a star of Soviet-era spa culture, but today, it stands as a testament to the past, a reminder of a time long gone, yet still pulsating with a certain charm and allure.
References: [1] https://www.lonelyplanet.com/georgia/tskaltubo [2] https://www.georgia.travel/tskaltubo/ [3] https://www.britannica.com/place/Tskaltubo [4] https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/tskaltubo-sanatoriums
- The infrastructure of Tskaltubo, once a hub for health-and-wellness and fitness-and-exercise, primarily catering to Soviet citizens seeking balneotherapy, now serves as a backdrop for modern-day science and research on preserving historical architecture.
- Dining in Tskaltubo is a unique experience, blending nutritious Georgian cuisine with health-focused dishes like Chkmeruli, a garlic-rich chicken meal, making it an appealing destination for food enthusiasts and wellness seekers alike.
- With its history rooted in health and wellness, travelers visiting Tskaltubo can enjoy a lifestyle immersed in natural surroundings, Soviet architecture, and the local hospitality as they immerse themselves in the still active thermal springs and explore the forgotten aspiration of its glory days.
